Sample Text

Corona ST171

Uncle 3S - Standard Seperti Selalu :D

Toyota TT

Putrajaya, Malaysia

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Brake system

(Archived from August 2, 2007 5:35 pm)

Brake system


















What is brake coefficient ?


Coefficient of Friction (µ  - pronounced “mew”) - A number measuring the “grip” of a material used in brake pads.  Coefficient of friction can vary depending on the type of material used for the brake rotor.  Typically service brakes are concerned with dynamic coefficient of friction, or the coefficient of friction measured while the vehicle is moving.  Below are a few of the main characteristics.  Depending on the desired performance, the characteristics can be minimized or maximized.

1. Speed Sensitive - Coefficient of friction typically drops as the speed of the vehicle increases.
2. Pressure Sensitive - Coefficient of friction typically drops as more clamp force is generated.
3. Temperature Sensitive - Coefficient of friction typically drops as the temperature of the brake system increases.

Engineers measure friction by its coefficient, which is calculated by dividing the force required to slide an object over a surface by the weight of the object. For example, if it takes 100 pounds of force to slide a 100-pound block of iron over a concrete floor, the coefficient of friction between the two materials is 1.0. If it takes only 2 pounds of force to slide a 100-pound block of ice over the same floor, the coefficient is only .02.

The coefficient of friction also effected from cleanliness of the pad surface and surface roughness.


Brake Fade


Brake fade is define as a decrease or loss of brake power and typically occurs in 3 ways :

i) Pad fade (Friction Material Fade)
All friction material (brake pad stuff) has a coefficient of friction curve over tempreture (as mention above). When pads reach high temperatures they can sometime can redeposit themselves on the surface of the brake pad, thus decrease of brake power. This is also described as classic glazed pad.

ii) Green fade
Green fade always directed to new brake pads. The reduction of friction also can be caused by the gasification of organic materials, it will create a gas cushion formed between pad and disk, or by the melting of the binding resins in the pad then act as a lubricant. Green fade can be overcome or prevented by doing brake bedding or bed-in. This is to boil off the resins, this I will explain later.
iii) Fluid fade
This type of fade happenes when the brake fluids inside the hydraulic caliper boils. This also produces bubles in the master brake pump container. Since bubbles compressible, it will make a spongy pedal. This kind of fade can be avoided by using DOT 4 or high grade brake fluid, even frequent changed of the brake fluid. I’ve read some page mentioned, that they spray a thermal barrier coating at the back of the brake pads, so it will isolate the heat, but i never tried it before. Would you like to give a try…?


Brake Squeal

Brake squeal happened when brake pad, brake rotor or caliper piston creates an extremely high frequency vibration between each other. There’s are a few factor that causes brake squels :
i) dust in the drums - as brake shoe wears off, dust were form in the brake drum thus make it squeals during braking - solution, open the drums, sandpaper the drum (200 grit sandpaper shouldbe fine) and then blow the dust off.
ii) cheap lining - cheap low cost lining doesn’t withstand the heat generated. The lost of friction causes it to squel and decreasing brake efficiency .
iii) hard lining - this is more common for  buses, trucks, taxis and others that use cheap, hard, long lasting brake. Due to the hard compound, lining don’t  have cushioning during braking, thus create the squeal. - solution, change the pad to better quality
iv) others - include bad brake pads, bent disk plate or drum, weak caliper piston / drum’s spring or saturated linig causes by leaking cylinder / piston kit.


Solving brake squeal


Copper-based grease
Copper-based grease, this grease is extremely resistant to pressure and heat, so putting it at the back of the brake pad may help to solve it, thus it also prevent brake fade. Here same sample of product that can help noisefree and molyslip.

Brake pad shim
Installing shim at the back of brake pad, this will eliminate the vibration as the shim absorb the vibration created.
before skimming brake
after skimming brake

Skimming your rotor for smoother surface and improve brake efficiency.
Don’t forget to run bedding proceed to bed-in the brake pads in the newly resurface disk.


More link on brake squeal , link1 and link2


Brake bleeding


Definition: This is the process of removing air bubbles from the brake system by pumping fluid through the lines. Air bubbles are bad because they compress when pressure is applied resulting in a low or spongy feeling pedal. The correct procedure for bleeding the brakes on most RWD vehicles is to start at the furthest wheel. Do the right rear then left rear brake, followed by the right front and left front brakes. On a FWD vehicle with a diagonally-split brake system, do the right rear then left front brake, followed by the left rear and right front brake. - Source : Auto Repair
Just like the mechanic do when you changed the brake pad, they said…"Pump…Press…" ("pump…tekannnn" - malay words) a few times.


















Brake bed-in


Most of us don’t know what the hack is bed-in, brake bed-in is to maximize brake performance. This normally done on the new set of brake pads, to avoid green fade (as mention earlier in brake pad section).
Normally this is how it works.

Step 1 : Make 10 stops from 50km/h down to 15km/h using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Don’t drag your pads during these stops. After 10 stops, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2 : Make 5 consecutive stops from 80km/h down to 20km/h. After 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This complete the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During those 2 steps, brake odor will happened, this is normal and it’s part of process your pads must go through to achieve ultimate level of performance. Your front disk will look a little blueish color and smelly abit and please don’t act clever and touch the extremely hot disk, wait for it to cool off.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,600 km.

**Please refer to brake pad manufacture for more details and the correct way for your brake bed-in / bedding.







4AGE 20V AE101 Engine ECU Terminals

(Archived from November 28, 2008 10:26 pm)


Nothing to do at the office…got so many free time :D
Lay my eyes on this page :

http://www.club4ag.com/ - ECU Japan 4age 20V Silver

Hey…
Since we got AE111 Engine ECU Terminals


Why not I make myself the AE101 Engine ECU Terminals diagram …
Soo here they are…click image for bigger size…


AE101 Engine ECU Terminals (Manual) :























AE101 Engine ECU Terminals (Auto) :











4AGE 20V Part Number

(Archived fro August 2, 2007 5:43 pm)

====================
 AE101 (SILVERTOP / SVT)
====================


04111-16201 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL 01.06.1991-01.08.1994 4AGZE..AE101
0411116202
04111-16210 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL 01.06.1991-01.08.1994 4AGE..AE101
04112-16200 GASKET KIT, ENGINE VALVE GRIND 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
04112-16210 GASKET KIT, ENGINE VALVE GRIND 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101
90311-70007 SEAL, ENGINE REAR OIL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
90311-70007 SEAL, ENGINE REAR OIL 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AGE,5AFE..AE10#
11383-15011 GASKET, ENGINE REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER 01.06.1991-01.05.1992 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10# *KIT*
15100-19036 PUMP ASSY, OIL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AG#..AE101
11291-16050 PLATE, ENGINE NAME 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101 *4agze sticker for boot*
16100-19115 PUMP ASSY, WATER 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
16100-19245 PUMP ASSY, WATER 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101
17670-16010 VALVE ASSY, AIR BY-PASS 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
13011-16210 RING SET, PISTON 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;STD
13011-16230 RING SET, PISTON 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;STD
13013-16210 RING SET, PISTON 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;O/S 0.50
13013-16230 RING SET, PISTON 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;O/S 0.50
13101-16131-01 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;STD,MARK 1
13101-16131-02 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;STD,MARK 2
13101-16131-03 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;STD,MARK 3
13101-16140-01 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;STD,MARK 1
13101-16140-02 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;STD,MARK 2
13101-16140-03 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;STD,MARK 3
13103-16131 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;O/S 0.50
13103-16140 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;O/S 0.50
13401-16020 CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101
13201-19126 ROD SUB-ASSY, CONNECTING 01.10.1991-01.05.1995 4AG#..AE101
90105-10076 BOLT, FLYWHEEL SET 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101..MTM
90119-12127 BOLT (FOR CRANKSHAFT PULLEY SET) 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101
90280-05005 KEY (FOR CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR) 01.07.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#
11011-15010 WASHER SET, CRANKSHAFT THRUST 01.06.1991-01.12.1997 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;STD
11011-15020
11704-16010 BEARING SET, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;U/S 0.25
11701-16010-01 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 1
11701-16010-02 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 2
11701-16010-03 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 3
11701-16010-04 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 4
11701-16010-05 BEARING, CRANKSHAFT 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#;MARK 5
13041-16070-01 BEARING, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1992 4AG#..AE101;MARK 1
130411607101
13041-16070-02 BEARING, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1992 4AG#..AE101;MARK 2
130411607102
13041-16070-03 BEARING, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1992 4AG#..AE101;MARK 3
130411607103
90999-73111 BUSH (FOR CONNECTING ROD SMALL END) 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101
13204-16070 BEARING SET, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1992 4AG#..AE101;U/S 0.25
1320416071
13265-16030 BOLT, CONNECTING ROD 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AG#..AE101
90179-09008 NUT, HEXAGON (FOR CONNECTING ROD BOLT) 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#
13405-16030 FLYWHEEL SUB-ASSY 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101..MTM
13405-16051 FLYWHEEL SUB-ASSY 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
90916-02179 BELT, V (FOR VANE PUMP) 01.06.1991-01.05.1993 AE101..GTZ
90916-02173 BELT, V (FOR ALTERNATOR) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
90916-02232 BELT, V (FOR FAN AND ALTERNATOR) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101
99365-21050 BELT, V (COOLER COMPRESSOR TO CRANKSHAFT PULLEY), NO.1 01.06.1991-01.05.1993 AE101..G,GT,GTAPX
99365-70840 BELT, V (FOR FAN AND ALTERNATOR) 01.06.1991-01.07.1993 4AGE..AE101
13568-19035 TIMING BELT
90916-03060 THERMOSTAT 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AG#..AE101;*WAX 82-95
28100-16110 STARTER ASSY 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;12V 1.0KW
28100-16140 STARTER ASSY 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101;12V 1.0KW
19300-16011 SENSOR ASSY, CAM POSITION 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101 *CRANK ANGLE SENSOR*
90099-14091 RING, DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING O 01.06.1991-01.10.1994 4AFE,4AG#,5AFE..AE10#
23209-16061-01 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;MARK BLUE
23209-16061-02 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;MARK BLACK
23209-16061-03 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;MARK YELLOW
23209-16061-04 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;MARK WHITE
23209-19015 INJECTOR ASSY, FUEL 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AGE..AE101
23801-16061 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1 01.07.1991-01.05.1995 4AGE..AE101 ***LINE FROM FILTER TO RAIL***
23901-16080 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;NO.2 ***COLD START INJECTOR PIPE***
90923-01377 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 4AGZE..AE101;NO.1 ***LINE FROM FILTER TO RAIL***
90923-01380 PIPE SUB-ASSY, FUEL, NO.1 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 4AGE..AE101;NO.2 ***COLD START INJECTOR PIPE***
31470-12092 CYLINDER ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE 01.06.1991-01.01.1993 AE10#..MTM
3147012093
04313-12030 CYLINDER KIT, CLUTCH RELEASE 01.06.1991-01.01.1993 AE10#..MTM
90311-34017 SEAL, OIL (FOR TRANSMISSION CASE) 01.08.1991-01.08.1998 AE10#..MTM..(F,G,GT,GTAPX,S,SJ,X)
9031134028
90311-50010 SEAL, OIL (FOR TRANSMISSION CASE) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
9031150027
90311-25011 SEAL, OIL, NO.1 (FOR FRONT TRANSAXLE CASE) 01.06.1991-01.08.1998 AE101..MTM..(G,GT,GTAPX)
90311-30006 SEAL, OIL, NO.1 (FOR FRONT TRANSAXLE CASE) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
30300-1A030 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ *COMPLETE BOX*
04331-12080 GASKET KIT, TRANSAXLE OVERHAUL (MTM) 01.06.1991-01.04.1997 AE101..(G,GT,GTAPX)..5F
04331-12092 GASKET KIT, TRANSAXLE OVERHAUL (MTM) 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
41301-12180 CASE SUB-ASSY, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL, NO.1 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
33403-19475 GEAR SUB-ASSY, SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN (MTM) 01.06.1991-01.04.1992 AE101..GTZ;N=30,MARK 30:35 elec
31230-20170 BEARING ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
31210-12170 COVER ASSY, CLUTCH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
31250-12230 DISC ASSY, CLUTCH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
3125012231
31236-20060 SUPPORT, RELEASE FORK 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
47730-12420 CYLINDER ASSY, FRONT DISC BRAKE, RH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTAPX,GTZ **Twin Piston Caliper**
47750-12420 CYLINDER ASSY, FRONT DISC BRAKE, LH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTAPX,GTZ **Twin Piston Caliper**
43410-12390 SHAFT ASSY, FRONT DRIVE, RH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
43420-12390 SHAFT ASSY, FRONT DRIVE, LH 01.06.1991-01.05.1995 AE101..GTZ
44610-1A420 BRAKE BOOSTER AE101
22270-16030 VALVE ASSY, IDLE SPEED CONTROL(FOR THLOTTLE BODY) 4AGE..AE101
27060-16330 ALTERNATOR AE101

22250-16110 AIR FLOW METER ( AFM ) AE101
13505-16021 IDLER PULLEY AE101
89465-19495 / 89465-12290 OXYGEN SENSOR AE101


===================
 AE111 (BLACKTOP / BT)
===================


1115-16111 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111 *Blacktop 20V Headgasket*
13540-16010 TENSIONER ASSY, CHAIN, NO.1 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
13568-19185 TIMING BELT, 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
19000-1A400 ENGINE ASSY, PARTIAL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111 ***BLACKTOP LONG MOTOR***
90919-01178 PLUG, SPARK 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;PK20R11
90919-01179 PLUG, SPARK 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;BKR6EP11
90919-21592 CORD SET, COIL AND SPARK, W/RESISTIVE 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
90919-02197 COIL ASSY, IGNITION 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
04111-16330 GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
15100-19045 PUMP ASSY, OIL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
16100-19285 PUMP ASSY, WATER 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
13101-16220-01 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;STD,MARK 1
13101-16220-02 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;STD,MARK 2
13101-16220-03 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;STD,MARK 3
13103-16220 PISTON SUB-ASSY, W/PIN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111;O/S 0.50
13405-16110 FLYWHEEL SUB-ASSY 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111..MTM
13401-16020 CRANKSHAFT 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
17700-1A020 CLEANER ASSY, AIR 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
28100-16170 STARTER ASSY 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111..6F;12V 1.0KW
19100-16270 DISTRIBUTOR ASSY 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
19101-16010 CAP SUB-ASSY, DISTRIBUTOR 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
22210-16763 BODY ASSY, THROTTLE 01.10.1998-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
30300-1A260 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..BZR ***6-speed***
30300-1A250 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..BZG..6F
41301-12041 CASE, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE11#..MTM..(BZG,FZ,XZ)
41301-12190 CASE, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE111..MTM..(BZR,BZV) ***LSD? ***
33530-12700 LEVER ASSY, SHIFT (FOR FLOOR SHIFT) 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..6F
22270-16070 VALVE ASSY, IDLE SPEED CONTROL(FOR THLOTTLE BODY) 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 4AGE..AE111
89661-1A860 COMPUTER, ENGINE CONTROL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..6F
82121-1N761 WIRE, ENGINE 01.04.1998-01.08.2000 AE111..6F
89420-12140 SENSOR ASSY, VACUUM (FOR E.F.I.) 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE111..BZG,BZR,BZV
83420-20040 GAGE ASSY, WATER TEMPERATURE SENDER 01.05.1996-01.08.2000 AE11#
89428-12160 SWITCH, TEMPERATURE DETECT, NO.2 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE11#
89465-19685 SENSOR, OXYGEN 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE111..BZG,BZR,BZV
89615-22050 SENSOR, KNOCK CONTROL 01.09.1998-01.08.2000 AE11#;TOYOTA
04112-16330 GASKET KIT, ENGINE VALVE GRIND 4AGE..AE111
27060-16360 ALTERNATOR AE111
89420-12070 MAP SENSOR AE111
13505-16021 IDLER PULLEY AE111
90507-19003 SPRING TENSIONER FOR IDLER AE111


===================
BOTH AE101 AND AE111
===================

Parts are interchangeable…A.K.A interchangeable ae101 and ae111

PART NAMAPART NUMBERCROSS REFERENCE
Distributor Cap19101-16010
Distributor19100-16270
Igniter89621-12050SW20
Ignition Coil90919-021973SFE, 2JZGE
Ignition Rotor19102-74040Beck Arnley 1737967, Kem W2052, Wells JA995
Spark Plugs90919-01178 or 01179PK20R11 or BKR6EP11, Nipondenso 3128, NGK 2978
Spark Plug Wires90919-15207, 90919-15206, 90919-15205, 90919-15204Magnecor
Coil Wire90919-13418
Spark Plug 5 Wire Set90919-21520
Air Filter17801-150704AFE or 7AFE
Oil Filter90915-100021989 Supra fits
Oil Filler Cap12180-46010Supra 2JZ, Stant 10113
Outer CV Boots04438-12260Repco 200-037
Inner CV Boots04438-12420Repco 100-051
Head Gasket11115-16111TRD, Toda
Camshaft Intake Seal90311-40016
Intake Valve Guide Bush11122-16030 std, 11122-16040 sub, 11123-16030 o/s 0.05
Exhaust Valve Guide Bush11126-16010, 11127-16010 o/s 0.05
Intake Valve Seat11132-16030 o/s 0.03, 11147-16030 std
Exhaust Valve Seat11135-16030 std, 11136-16030 o/s 0.03
Valve Stem Oil Sear or O Ring Exhaust90913-02092Echo, Prius
Valve Stem Oil Sear or O Ring Intake90913-02093Echo, Prius
Valve Adjusting Shim (Lifter Valve)13751-16020
Valve Cover Gasket11213-16020, 11213-16021 sub
Cylinder Head Cover Nut, Washer90176-08047, 90210-09016
PCV Valve12204-11050Standard V330, Napa 2-9405
PCV Valve Grommet90480-18001HELP 491036
Spark Plug Tube Gasket11193-16010
Fuel Pressure Regulator23280-16140
Alternator Belt99365-80840
Intake Cam Sprocket13050-16010
Exhaust Cam Sprocket13050-16040
VVT Cam Valve15330-16020blacktop
Thermostat90916-03090All 4A
Accessory Belt AC & PS99365-21060
Water Pump16100-19245
Water Pump O Ringall 4A
Water Pump Gasket16124-16040
Power Steering Pump04454-12010
PS Belt Adjusting Bracket16381-16070
Bolt Flange for Idler90105-103344AFE, 7AFE, blacktop
Pin for Idler Spring Tensioner90249-060064AFE, 7AFE, blacktop
Coolant Temperature Sensor89422-35010WELLS SU4007, BECK ARNLEY 158-0421
Oil Pressure Switch (with gauge)83520-35030NIEHOFF OPT24821, BECK ARNLEY 2011130

Oil Control Valve (OCV)

(Archived from December 24, 2007 5:57 pm)

Oil Control Valve (OCV) also known as Oil solenoid or VVT solenoid.

At first I thought it was the OCV oil ring…but since the leak came from the socket…for sure it’s the OCV itself leaks…
Symptoms  : A bit slugish during VVT engage…
Solutions : Replace OCV
For more info on OCV, click me



VVT Pulley , VVT-i Pulley and DVVT Pulley internal parts


(Archived from November 19, 2008 10:15 pm)


Ever wonder what is inside our beloved VVT pulley looks like ?
This what makes our Intake cam pulley advance by 30 degree with the help of OCV with the right manifold pressure, that received signal from ECU…







   Thanx to DonnieB from hhttp://forum.9000rpm.net



===================================
Then comes in VVT-i system…
Hence…the VVT-i pulley
which looks something like this :

Open the 4 bolts…this is what you see inside…

The cover plate off. During normal start or cold start…system goes to fully retard…once on operathing tempreture…system can go advance n retard back when ever needed…


More info on VVT-i noise…
VVT-i internal parts and how it works…refer to this thread - Celica Forum



==============DVVT===============
While we are talking about VVT-i, lets talk about DVVT.
which works similarly to VVT-i…

Here some brief picture of DVVT system…








Thanx to otromen from myvi forum

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

4AGE conrods and pistons comparison

(Archived from November 19, 2008 9:47 pm)

4AGE conrods and pistons comparison






Thanx to a good research made by KinLoud, from ToySpeed, New Zealand.
Original post : 4age rods ( conrods ) now with weights.

TPS part number

(Archived from June 10, 2008 8:44 pm)

Found this new part number database…

http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/tps%20sensors.pdf

20V TPS part numbers is not listed…
4AGE 20V silvertop TPS part number is 89452-12080 which is the same as 2JZGTE, 3RZFE, 2RZFE, 5VZFE -> 89452-12080 / 22080. Not quite sure about Blacktop TPS number, will get it later.

Supra 2JZGTE TPS
























The best part…I browse the page…and found out this cool online Catalog…

source : http://www.tomco-inc.com/PDFCatalogs.aspx 


4AGE 20V Sensors Location #1

(Archived from November 28, 2007 11:11 pm)





Sensors Detail :
From top to bottom, left to right :
Water gage (water temperature sender switch) : 83420-20040 - AE111
Knock Sensor : 89615-22050 - AE11#
Oil pressure switch : 83520-35030 - AE101 and AE111
Oxygen sensor : 89465-19685 - AE111
Temperature switch (temperature detect switch) : 89428-12160 - AE111
The most troublesome sensor with faster wear and tear is the O2 sensor / oxygen sensor / lambda sensor…with life span 50k miles or 80k km…
Others…not quite sure…will try to find it…

======================UPDATE - 20/11/2008===================





Credits goes to DonnieB from http://forum.9000rpm.net , thanx !!!





AE101 climate control malfunction

(Archived from September 26, 2007 5:57 pm)


Dashboard Model AE101 Coupe (Trueno / Levin)
Can not control the A/C ?
Only can run at “AUTO”, no LO and HI options…tempreture also can not be control anymore…

Yup…it’s because of this fella…
The A/C Power transistor …located at the A/C Blower, under the dashboard. It controls the output voltage of the blower. Well, that what happened to it... :D




AE101 power transistor part number





4age 20v A/C compressor problems

(Archived October 1, 2007)

4age 20v A/C compressor problems


Symptom : 
1) Switch on A/C, poor idling. RPM drops about 0.5K…
2) Compressor makes excessive noise


The reasons :


1) Leaks
- One of the most common compressor failure is due to loss of lubricant. Most common places the leak take place are hoses, pipe connections (flange gasket and O-rings), condenser and evaporator.
- For my case, there was a leak at one of my hoses, due to that, it contributes making my compressor very unhealthy…heeeee

2) Compressor clutch problem
- the clutch is not working properly, maybe the magnetic clutch did not engages when energized, when i turn the compressor pulley, the movement weren’t so smooth…others maybe include a bad relay, fuse, wiring problem or a defective clutch
- how to determine the clutch engage or not, by jumping the clutch lead with a jumper wire from the battery, it will show if the problem is in the clutch or elsewhere. If not engaging it’s the clutch problem.
- If the clutch engages, it maybe due to clutch power supply, such as relay, fuse, wiring, switch or control module. You can detect al these by simply work backward, from the compressor to the battery to find out the root cause, mainly voltage problem.
Through out my mechanic finding, due to my compressor problems, (as mentioned in the Symptom) , it makes my cutout switch burned, all the wiring near by was caught up in flames…lucky nothing serious happened.
This is the picture of the burn-out cutout switch (I think). See the burn mark…


















Below are the second hand compresor (half-cut condition, used from Japan)





3) Clutch air gap 
- as mentioned before the clutch not turning very smooth and it also makes the clutch air gap reduce or wasn’t the correct gap. Through out my finding, most of clutches air gap was around 0.015 to 0.040 inch.
Soooo…with these 2 problems with my compressor and keep on ignoring to replace my compressor, it makes my compressor cutout fails to operates properly and finally it burned. Since the cutout switch burned, the future consequences are…compressor will burn, compressor belt also will burn and the worth part is the whole engine will caught up in fire, because not cutout switch, which supposed to protect the compressor from such damage. (As mentioned by the A/C specialist) .

Solutions : 

Replace the faulty compressor with a new one. By doing so, the idling when A/C is on is much more better. Others that related, better acceleration during A/C is on with better FC.
Others : 
Top : New Compressor
Bottom : Faulty Compressor
























Details for picture below .
Left picture : Faulty AE101 compressor part number and details
Right picture : New AE101 compressor part number and details
P/S : Old model R12…better to changed to R134a, for better protection to the environment…heee


                      
               
              
            



4AGE O2 sensor (oxygen sensor)

O2 sensor (oxygen sensor)
(Archived from August 6, 2007 11:57 am)


                               (Sample picture)

Note :
AE101 O2 Sensor part number : 89465-19495 or 89465-12290
AE111 O2 Sensor part number : 89465-19685

In 1976 , Bosch introduced what would eventually become one of the most important technologies for reducing exhaust emissions: the oxygen sensor. By 1996, Bosch had produced its 100 millionth oxygen sensor. Today, Bosch oxygen sensors are original equipment on a wide variety of European, Asian and domestic vehicles and are the No. 1 best selling brand in the aftermarket.
Oxygen sensors have been standard equipment on passenger car and light truck engines since 1980-81/ Most such vehicles have one or two oxygen sensors (two are typically used on selected V6 and V8 engines starting in the late 80s). Since the introduction of Onboard Diagnostics II (OBD II) in 1995-96, the number of oxygen sensors per vehicle has doubled (the extra sensors are used downstream of the catalytic converter to monitor its operating efficiency). Yet, as important as oxygen sensors are today, few motorists are even aware of their presence - let alone the key role oxygen sensors play in engine performance and reducing pollution. One survey found that 99.7% of all consumers did not know their vehicle had an oxygen sensor .

What does O2 sensor do ?
It is the primary measurement device for the fuel control computer in your car to know if the engine is too rich or too lean. The O2 sensor is active anytime it is hot enough, but the computer only uses this information in the closed loop mode. Closed loop is the operating mode where all engine control sensors including the Oxygen sensor are used to get best fuel economy, lowest emissions, and good power.

How O2 sensor fights pollution
Originally called a "Lambda sensor" when it was first used in fuel-injection European applications, the oxygen sensor monitors the level of oxygen (O2) in the exhaust so an onboard computer can regulate the air/fuel mixture to reduce emissions. The sensor is mounted in the exhaust manifold and generates a voltage signal proportional to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. The sensing element on 99% of all oxygen sensors in use is a zirconium ceramic bulb coated on both sides with a thin layer of platinum. The outside of the bulb is exposed to the hot exhaust gases, while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor body or wiring to the outside atmosphere.
When the air/fuel mixture is rich and there is little O2 in the exhaust, the difference in oxygen levels across the sensing element generates a voltage through the sensor’s platinum electrodes: typically 0.8 to 0.9 volts. When the air/fuel mixture is lean and there is more oxygen in the exhaust, the sensor’s voltage drops to 0.1 to 0.3 volts. When the air/fuel mixture is perfectly balanced and combustion is cleanest, the sensor’s output voltage is around 0.45 volts.
The oxygen sensor’s voltage signal is monitored by the onboard engine management computer to regulate the fuel mixture. When the computer sees a rich signal (high voltage) from the O2 sensor, it commands the fuel mixture to go lean. When the computer receives a lean signal (low voltage) from the O2 sensor, it commands the fuel mixture to go rich. Cycling back and forth from rich to lean averages out the overall air/fuel mixture to minimize emissions and to help the catalytic converter operate at peak efficiency (which is necessary to reduce hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and oxides of nitrogen (NOX) levels even further).
The speed with which the oxygen sensor reacts to oxygen changes in the exhaust is very important for accurate fuel control, peak fuel economy, and low emissions. The air/fuel mixture in an older carbureted engine doesn’t change as quickly as that in a throttle body fuel-injected application, so response time is less critical. But, in newer engines with multipoint fuel injection, the air/fuel mixture can change extremely fast, requiring a very quick response from the o2 sensor.

Sensor aging
Nothing is lasts forever, O2 sensor are no execption. Time period of O2 sensor are about 30-60,000 km or 2000 key start. Mostly after that a reminder from engine check light will appear. Consult your owner manual, auto repair manual, dealer, or repair shop on what your engine lights means. (For 4AGE 20V the error code is 21).
Contiminants from normal conbustion and oil ash accumulate on the sensing element. This reduces This reduces the sensor ’s ability to respond quickly to changes in the air/fuel mixture. The sensor slows down and becomes "sluggish." At the same time, the sensor’s output voltage may not be as high as it once was, giving the false impression that the air/fuel mixture is leaner than it actually is. The result can be a richer-than-normal air/fuel mixture under various operating conditions that causes fuel consumption and emissions to rise.

How do I know if my O2 sensor may be bad
These *is not* a pointer to O2 sensor failure, just bring up the possibility. Vacuum leaks and ignition problems are the common fuel economy killer.
i)  Fuel consumption increase
ii) Engine will lost power and not rspond quickly although done the normal tuning
iii) Gas from the exhaust smell like rotten egg
iv) No more water steam look alike came out from the exhasut tip (bad engine condition also happen like this)

How can I test my O2 sensor ?
They can be tested both in the car and out. If you have a high impedence volt meter, the procedure is fairly simple. It will help you to have some background on the way the sensor does it’s job. Read how does an O2 sensor work first.

Testing O2 sensor that are installed

The engine must first be fully warm. If you have a defective thermostat, this test may not be possible due to a minimum temperature required for closed loop operation. Attach the positive lead of a high impedence DC voltmeter to the Oxygen sensor output wire. This wire should remain attached to the computer. You will have to back probe the connection or use a jumper wire to get access. The negative lead should be attached to a good clean ground on the engine block or accessory bracket. Cheap voltmeters will not give accurate results because they load down the circuit and absorb the voltage that they are attempting to measure. A acceptable value is 1,000,000 ohms/volt or more on the DC voltage. Most (if not all) digital voltmeters meet this need. Few (if any) non-powered analog (needle style) voltmeters do. Check the specs for your meter to find out. Set your meter to look for 1 volt DC. Many late model cars use a heated O2 sensor. These have either two or three wires instead of one. Heated sensors will have 12 volts on one lead, ground on the other, and the sensor signal on the third. If you have two or three wires, use a 15 or higher volt scale on the meter until you know which is the sensor output wire.
When you turn the key on, do not start the engine. You should see a change in voltage on the meter in most late model cars. If not, check your connections. Next, check your leads to make sure you won’t wrap up any wires in the belts, etc. then start the engine. You should run the engine above 2000 rpm for two minutes to warm the O2 sensor and try to get into closed loop. Closed loop operation is indicated by the sensor showing several cross counts per second. It may help to rev the engine between idle and about 3000 rpm several times.The computer recognizes the sensor as hot and active once there are several cross counts. You are looking for voltage to go above and below 0.45 volts. If you see less than 0.2 and more than 0.7 volts and the value changes rapidly, you are through, your sensor is good. If not, is it steady high (> 0.45) near 0.45 or steady low (< 0.45). If the voltage is near the middle, you may not be hot yet. Run the engine above 2000 rpm again. If the reading is steady low, add richness by partially closing the choke or adding some propane through the air intake. Be very careful if you work with any extra gasoline, you can easily be burned or have an explosion. If the voltage now rises above 0.7 to 0.9, and you can change it at will by changing the extra fuel, the O2 sensor is usually good. If the voltage is steady high, create a vacuum leak. Try pulling the PCV valve out of it’s hose and letting air enter. You can also use the power brake vacuum supply hose. If this drives the voltage to 0.2 to 0.3 or less and you can control it at will by opening and closing the vacuum leak, the sensor is usually good. If you are not able to make a change either way, stop the engine, unhook the sensor wire from the computer harness, and reattach your voltmeter to the sensor output wire. Repeat the rich and lean steps.
Other related sites : www.my-acoustic.com